Southern Utah in Slow Motion

There are many places in southern Utah where you can't get cell phone service. I love those places. They give you the feeling that you may need to take responsibility for yourself . . . you're out from under the wing of the nanny state. I do not, however, like it when the girls are in those places without me. I can't ensure their safety when I don't know where they are. (I do have to remind myself, of course, that the days of family cell phones are very new, and people managed to somehow survive without them.)

In any case, the girls were coming up from Mexican Hat yesterday and the cell coverage was bad until the top of the Moqui Dugway, and even from there it was spotty. By the time they reached Natural Bridges, the transmission on the Chev was having some problems. It was 100 degrees outside and the next town (if you can call it that) was Hanksville, 85 miles away. We were able to talk sporadically and I gave some suggestions that seemed to help, but I knew that I'd lose touch with them from Fry Canyon down to the river and up North Wash. I was pacing around the house, nervous as a cat, plucking at my face and imagining the worst. Finally, I grabbed some leftovers from the fridge along with a bottle of water; I went out to the car; drove straight to the highway; and set the cruise control on 80.

I reached Loa in a shade over two hours. (The Sable has its own transmission problems, but once it settles in at over 80 mph, it is a beast.) The cells were working and I learned that the girls had made it to Capitol Reef by that time. The Chev's transmission had stopped shifting and they were driving the shoulder of the highway in first gear with the flashers on. I met them at the turn to Teasdale. They were tired, but otherwise fine. My 150 mile flight had probably been unnecessary. On the other hand, what was I going to do, sit in the house sipping a rare Cabernet while they were at risk of being stranded on the banks of the Dirty Devil?

I gave them the car and sent them home. It was 6:30 pm. The automatic transmission on the Chev has an electronic sensor that tells it when to shift. When that stops working, the transmission stops shifting. I wondered if it might be protected by a fuse, but it wasn't. I wondered if it was too hot, so I cranked up the heater to cool the engine, but it wasn't. So, I kicked the tires a couple of times and got back on the highway.

I decided to enjoy myself. I mean, it has probably been 60 years since someone saw all of southern Utah at 30 mph. I imagined that I was Maynard Dixon, out from California in the 1930s. The roads were bad, the car had tires like a bicycle, and maybe Dorthea Lange was on the seat with me. I got on the shoulder of the road with the windows down and started looking over the country. And what country it was.

From the Thousand Lake Mountain to the north and the Awapa Plateau to the south, I started. I coasted down the hill in Bicknell with the engine detached from the transmission. I noticed a waitress from the SunGlow watching me, so I waved. At Loa I looked in at Rob Hamilton's place. He told me that his wife was going to make him buy a boat for Lake Powell, and there it was. Up the mountain towards the Fish Lake; then down, in silence, the truck coasting without the sound of engine compression. The merc was open in Koosharem, but I didn't stop. I was headed for Grass Valley and the glow of the setting sun. There were two guys standing in the road when I turned west, down Kingston Canyon. We waved, and I concentrated on the sun setting directly into my eyes. When I crossed the E. Fork of the Sevier at the bottom of the canyon, the sun was gone, and the cool air off the creek flooded the truck. Around Circleville a few vehicles passed me headed south, and then it was just me and the river and the growing dark. I turned up Bear Valley with the flashers on, but at the top I no longer needed them. Without the compression of the engine to slow my speed I coasted all the way to I-15, which is probably about 10 miles. I wasn't going to risk the freeway in the dark, so I turned down the frontage road. There, to my left, was the rest area, half the population of Vegas, and the roar of the big rigs. Then there was me, driving in the fields of the Parowan Valley at night with the windows down. When I went through Paragonah, a guy was walking his dog in the street. I went back out into the valley with the lights of Parowan in front of me. A few minutes later, I was home.